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Diciembre 28, 2005
Wedding Bells for Evo Morales
According to the Santa Cruz newspaper, El Deber, Bolivia's President-Elect will wed MAS substitute councilwoman Adriana Gil on December 31. Gil is a well known commodity in Santa Cruz, as she represents an unlikely supporter of MAS and has been heavily criticized by many in that Department. However, she is on the verge of becoming Bolivia's First Lady.
The ceremony presents another predicament. Will Morales will formal wear to his own wedding?
The MAS leader confirmed that he will not wear a suit nor a tie. "I am getting married with my jacket and my grey shirt."
Adriana Gil is 22 years old and has been studying Law in UPSA. She began her political career three years ago, serving as substitute councilmember for Osvaldo Peredo.
More information after the jump.
December 28 is Dia de los Inocentes (Bolivia's version of April Fools Day)
Posted by eduardo at 06:54 PM | Comments (5)
Diciembre 27, 2005
Positive First Steps
President-elect Evo Morales, along with Vice-President-elect Alvaro Garcia Linera were in Santa Cruz this evening to meet face to face with the Committee Pro Santa Cruz. After the gathering, many are calling the meeting a historic event. Many expected a confrontation between two sides generalized as having polar opposite views. However, in the meeting and press conference broadcast live on Bolivian television both sides were open to dialogue and Morales vowed to remain very open to the suggestions and recommendations by this Civic Committee. These words drew applause from members of the Civic Committee that were in the audience. Morales guaranteed the Referendum for Autonomy and promised that the bidding process for El Mutún would continue on schedule. The newly elected President also said that he learned a lot from the meeting, admitting that he was not aware that this Committee was diverse containing workers, laborers and other social sectors. His attitude was very humble and vowed to continue the dialogue, anytime, anyplace. Stories will follow in tomorrow´s papers.
In other news, Morales announced that he will halve the Presidential salary. In administrations past, the President received Bs. 27,500 per month (approximately 3,500 USD per month). He said that the new salary will not exceed Bs. 15,000. This austerity measure is very symbolic for the country. He wants to set the example, as deputies, senators, ministers and vice-ministers will also receive reduced salaries. Deputy substitutes will not receive any wages. Many on the street are applauding this move, because of the economic crisis of the country. The minimum wage for the working class is fixed at Bs. 450 per month.
Posted by eduardo at 08:05 PM | Comments (2)
Diciembre 26, 2005
The Big Question
The most talked about topic around Cochabamba:
What will Evo's cabinet look like? How will he handle the bids for El Mutún? Why are people still talking about the radio prank call?
Nope.
Will he or won't he? Wear a suit and tie to the inauguration, that is. Seems like everyone has an opinion whether Evo Morales will shed his usual attire, which is very casual (shirt and blue MAS jacket), for the customary and traditional suit and tie. Many say that it would be a lack of respect to the guests in attendance and to the office of the Presidency if he does not wear a coat and tie. Others say that he should not change who is for the occasion. However, there are plans for two different inagurations, one in Congress and the other in the Plaza San Francisco of La Paz. Many predict that he will wear the suit for the official swearing in and wear a traditional poncho for the symbolic affair.
But is it really that big of deal?
The entire country waits for January 22 for the answer.
Posted by eduardo at 09:33 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 24, 2005
Christmastime in Bolivia
Crossposted on Global Voices Online.
Take a deep breath. Watch your belongings. Say goodbye to personal space. If you want to partake in some holiday shopping at a place where you can find anything and everything, it would be best to heed that advice. Every year, the Feria Navideña in Cochabamba, Bolivia overwhelms the senses and invades every available open space near and around the large, local open-air market known as La Cancha. Normally, this market is chaos in itself throughout the year, but around the holiday season, an influx of informal vendors bring their wares to take advantage of the innate need for holiday purchasing. The market appears to multiply tenfold during the month of December, but that doesn’t keep the holiday shoppers away, as many brave the harsh conditions in hopes of finding bargains in one convenient location.
Many sellers set up tables with low hanging tarps, with Christmas lights, wreaths, plastic animals for manger scenes, and Christmas cards for sale. The variety is unsurpassed, as one stand may sell soccer balls, while the next stand over, the seller may be hawking light bulbs and extension cords. There is some semblance of order as the vendors set up orderly aisles for curious browsers to shuffle by. However, the width of these aisles is barely two people across. Once you get entire families that stop to look at the merchandise and some friendly price haggling, it leads to a frustrating congestion. Mix in satisfied customers carrying home large packages, or items such as motorized cars for the toddler, then it becomes even more packed. Those vendors unlucky enough to find their own stable stand are resigned to being wandering salesmen who sometimes venture in these tight spaces to look for interested buyers. These wandering salesmen and women often lug their goods in wheelbarrows which adds to the unruly mess. I even noticed one man who had a fine collection of hand saws for sale, which is not exactly the safest item to sell among the tightly packed crowd.

The municipality attempted to put more order to the fair by not allowing them to spill out on the street and limiting the spaces where stands could be set up. However, many vendors claimed their right to earn a living and set up shop wherever convenient, even if it added to the headache of traffic jams and irritated shoppers. Every year, the local government tries to maintain order, but every year the vendors seem to win.
In other parts of the city away from the hustle and bustle of the large marketplace, Christmas definitely is in the air. Lights are strewn all around the main plaza, 14 de septiembre. The city’s main avenue, la Avenida Ballivian, better known as El Prado, contains the largest concentration of Christmas decorations, including a surprisingly elegant tree constructed out of 2-liter bottles of Coca-Cola. There is also a fair share of gaudy decorations like an out of place plastic Papa Noel (Santa Claus) overlooking the Plaza Colon. Santa hats are also for sale by vendors hoping to capitalize on the festive mood created by these decorations.
Here on El Prado, there are no signs of separation of Church and State, as the Mayor’s Office proudly boasts the sponsorship of the large manger scene. The baby Jesus and shepherds are stored away for safe keeping during the day and assembled when night falls. The three wise men made an early appearance from its usual early January appointment.
The Christmas season also draws contrasts between the haves and have-nots. Every year around these particular dates, hundreds of poor campesinos, usually from the department of Potosí, descend on the large urban center hoping to find a bit of charity from generous city folk. On nearly every corner and especially concentrated around the main plaza, women and scores of children dressed in typical dress from that region, ask for coins from the passers-by. It was observed that many individuals gave loose change, but with the overabundance of beggars, it is merely impossible to give to every single one.
In the city, the most important part of the holiday takes place on Nochebuena, which is Christmas Eve. After attending Roman Catholic Mass, families gather to take part in a late night dinner. The fare varies from family to family, as some prepare turkey, chicken, pork or beef. As soon as midnight strikes, the opening of the presents is an annual tradition. The Christmas celebrated in rural and urban Bolivia varies greatly, as this perspective comes from one spent solely in the city.
Posted by eduardo at 09:04 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 22, 2005
Morales Spoofed
During one of his many post-election press conferences, president-elect Evo Morales informed the press that he already spoken with several world leaders including Spanish President, José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero. However, little did Morales know, that the phone call was a gag played on him by a Spanish radio station.
This had international incident written all over it, but it seems that the radio hosts didn't hacer la burla too much of the new Bolivian leader. The Bolivian government has issued a formal complaint to the Spanish government, who is expected to "censure" the radio station for impersonating a Spanish president. The government of Spain has also issued a formal apology.
Hear the mp3 here and read the transcript after the jump (in spanish).
TRANSCRIPT
Supuesto Rodríguez Zapatero (SRS): Bueno, ¿Cómo está?
Evo Morales (EM): Muchas gracias por la llamada. Habla Evo Morales.
SRS: Encantado de saludarlo, Evo. La comunicación quizás no es la mejor pero quería aprovechar el momento para expresarte mi enhorabuena por ese cambio en nombre del Gobierno de España. ¿Cómo te encuentras? Cambio.
EM: Muchas gracias, Presidente. Muchísimas gracias por la llamada. Acá estoy en una reunión de valoración. Muy contento, muy fortalecido, muy confiado en el pueblo boliviano, especialmente en los pueblos indígenas, los movimientos sociales y como también sectores empresariales. Estamos muy alentados, Presidente. Un saludo en especial de los compañeros, de Álvaro García Linera, vicepresidente, y del equipo de técnicos que cuentan...
SRS: Sabes que tu victoria es una enorme satisfacción para los españoles, porque hemos trazado, desde que iniciamos el cambio político en España hace ya un par de años un eje que pasó por los hermanos cubanos, por el hermano Chávez y nos alegramos sinceramente de que te incorpores de una manera triunfal al nuevo orden que queremos establecer en España y Latinoamérica, Evo. Cambio.
EM: Muchas gracias, presidente. Tenía muchas ganas de acompañar a Fidel, a Chávez, cuando pensaron en mí, cuando me dieron esta responsabilidad de ser presidente del MAS, ahora presidente de Bolivia. Por seguridad vamos a fortalecer ese eje de reaccionar por la liberación de nuestros pueblos; meses atrás visitamos, conversamos con su canciller, con su vicecanciller, un tal Bernardino, y después de (...) me decía, ojalá ganase; si ganase vamos a doblar la ayuda económica que ustedes merecen.
SRS: Eso te ha dicho Bernardino ¿verdad?
EM: Sí, muy alentado me vine, aunque usted sabe que acá hemos estado por agentes externos...
SRS: Pero eso..., ya sabes que es el imperialismo Evo.
EM: Así es, así es, Presidente (). Para resumirle, queda usted invitado a la transmisión de mando que va a ser el próximo mes.
SRS: Usted queda en primer lugar invitado a España. A mí me encantaría de que su primer viaje oficial fuera a España.
EM: Muchas gracias. Yo le pedí a Felipe González, que me llamó el 1 de diciembre alentándonos, y también algunos contactos... Muchas gracias, Presidente, dispuesto a visitarle. Antes de la posesión, Presidente.
SRS: ¿Cómo lo habéis celebrado, Evo?, porque es una gran noticia. Me imagino que te habrá llamado Hugo (Chávez), Fidel (Castro) imagino que también...
EM: Sí, muchas llamadas telefónicas. El último que ha llamado ha sido el presidente Toledo hace media hora atrás, como también el Presidente ()...
SRS: El que no te habrá llamado imagino habrá sido el presidente George Bush (risas).
EM: No, estamos en eso.
SRS: A mí tampoco me ha llamado todavía, y llevo dos años.
EM: Sí, Presidente () constante con su Embajada acá para la visita correspondiente. No tengo una invitación...
SRS: Naturalmente.
EM: Y tenemos mucho interés de conversar con usted, Presidente, en abril.
SRS: Yo daré las órdenes oportunas al Embajador a través del Ministerio de Asuntos Exteriores de España, el señor Moratinos, para que nuestro encuentro se produzca cuanto antes.
EM: Muchísimas gracias, Presidente. Eso esperaba, muy contento, muchas gracias, Presidente. Espero que en estos cambios que se plantean nuestros indígenas (...) de Bolivia ustedes acompañen nuestro valor de Presidente.
SRS: De nuevo te transmito en nombre de todo el Gobierno de España nuestra enhorabuena. Sí, Evo, te presento apoyo incondicional del Gobierno de España y ¡fuera el imperialismo!
EM: Igualmente (...) muchísimas gracias por la llamada. Saludos a su familia y a todo el pueblo español.
SRS: De su parte.
EM: Muchas gracias.
SRS: Gracias.
Posted by eduardo at 05:14 PM | Comments (2)
Diciembre 21, 2005
Washington Post Summary
Jefferson Morley of the Washington Post summarized the buzz in the Latin American media after the victory of Evo Morales. The newspaper pictured is from Página 12 from Argentina in reference to Tupaj Katari's claim of "Volveré y seré miliones". There are also some interesting comments on that page, many as one might expect, operating off of what they may assume to be true, such already saying that Morales is on the path of being dictator for life. Count on it, they say.
The Christian Science Monitor also published a commentary called: Don't do Chávez a favor in Bolivia, advocating a more amicable relationship. Without such a relationship, the US' behavior and rhetoric towards Bolivia could play right into what Chavez wants.
The Bush administration reacted calmly to Brazil's 2002 election of socialist Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, creating a working relationship with him as he adopted centrist policies.
But the US may see Bolivia differently from Brazil because it exports cocaine and has abundant gas fields. Bolivia is also South America's poorest nation, with more than half of its population of Indian descent, as Morales is. The US holds big leverage over Bolivia, with trade preferences for its textiles, with sizable aid, and with influence over international finance
I hope the US will start from scratch with its relationship with Bolivia and not rely on what they recall or remember Morales once saying, whose rhetoric has become more moderate in recent months.
Posted by eduardo at 08:01 PM | Comments (4)
El Mutún
Just today, my cousin was talking about this potential mega-project. Unfortunately, I knew little about it. However, Jonathan Olguin's Journal of Bolivian Business and Politics has all of the info.
The Mutún project represents a long-awaited project for development in Bolivia and the Santa Cruz Department; it’s expected to generate over 10,000 direct and indirect jobs during the length of the project. The site holds some of the continent’s largest iron ore reserves (at an estimated 40 billion metric tons of iron ore base, according to Jan 05, USGS survey) and will begin production at an impressive 1.5 million tons, and generate a tax base of $US 50 million yearly.
One must wonder whether these revenues will be a topic of autonomous conversation in the future, as these natural resources are located in Santa Cruz.
Posted by eduardo at 07:56 PM | Comments (0)
Losing Wager
Perhaps you might remember the ridiculous website created called Evopresidente.com. It was supposed to be a satirical website, but in the end was actually a sorry and racist example of some backwards thinking in the country. The creator(s) also recorded a song which advocated the murder of the Presidential candidate, which ended with sounds of gunfire. This guy was so sure that Evo would not win the elections that he/she issued this statement:
Message to Evo Morales and the general public from the Webmaster:
If Evo Morales emerges as the winner in the election on December 4, 2005, I will put my photo on this page. If Evito becomes the winner, I will put my photo and name on this page. Obviously there will be repercussions as many of the emails received there are a lot of people who hate me for making this page. It doesn't matter, because if Evo becomes President we are all seriously in trouble.
Perhaps the webmaster will say that the elections were moved to December 18 and because of that, his original offer doesn't stand.
Posted by eduardo at 07:36 PM | Comments (1)
Blogs Bolivia Election Summary
There is an outstanding overview of what the different Bolivian blogs were saying about last weekend's elections. Read the article here. There were several blogs that I was unaware of, meaning that I haven't been up to the task keeping up with the Bolivian blogs for Global Voices Online. The weekly summaries will resume after the first of the year. I am preparing a special Christmas edition.
Posted by eduardo at 07:31 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 20, 2005
Some Thoughts
MAS' decisive victory in Bolivia is a positive step forward for Bolivia. No one believes for a second that miracles will happen overnight (well, some think it should, but more on that later), but more than half of the country desperately wanted a change from the mess that the traditional political parties and politicians left behind. No candidate ever reached such a vote total of over 50% and because of that, there is a clear mandate to fundamentally change the way the system operates. The way the system operated was the the poor, rural and marginalized were deemed second class citizens in a country, where the indigneous groups were the majority of the population. But one sure couldn't tell that by seeing who ruled the country and the way large corporations had their way with the natural resources through exploitation under terms agreed upon by politicians with no concern with the Bolivian people. And NO, (despite the name) pure socialism is not the goal of this government.
It was amazing to see how a feeling of fear was created through a "guerra sucia" during the campaigning. Late in the campaign, in the Zona Sud of La Paz and in Cochabamba, some ingenious individuals spraypainted the walls of large houses and businesses claiming it as "Social Property of MAS", hoping to lead some to believe that MAS supporters were getting ahead of themselves by scouting out prime properties. Many people were incorrectly afraid that private property would be expropriated and reverted back to the state. It is unfortunate that the name Morales borrowed "Movement Toward Socialism" stuck, because what has been reiterated on the television interviews and post election press conferences that the private property and business will not only be respected, but they will be protected. The only property that will be returned to the state are the large estates that are unproductive and in many cases, were dished out to a few families through presidential decree. This concept is nothing new as it already exists in the INRA Law.
The television channel Unitel was tremendously biased towards the campaign of Tuto Quiroga. In fact, they went out of their way to discredit Evo Morales. For example, often during the news programs, the channel would summarize the words of the speaker at a press conference and place subtitles under the image. In one interview, Morales said that "he didn't believe in private investment that sought to rip off the Bolivian state". Unitel would summarize his words as "Morales does not believe in private investment".
It is amazing to see how subjectivity has entered the world of journalism and continues throughout different blogs. Adjectives seem to be a favorite tool of some writers. Nearly every single headline or story continues some variance of " (Insert adjectives here) Evo Morales Wins Presidential Elections in Bolivia." Some of the favorite descriptive terms used are cocalero, llama farmer, indigenous, anti-US, and some have even used far-left radical, which one can safely say is clearly a matter of opinion. How many times in the US do journalists label George W Bush as Far-right radical Bush? There are many who hold that opinion, but if a journalist would dare use that adjective, it would be highly questioned.
Did you know that many so-called Trotskos (Trotsky-ites), those considered to be even farther left than MAS despise him? If Morales is far-left, what are the COB, Jaime Solares and other Trotskos? Perhaps they circled all the way around and are right-wingers again. Many of these groups are already giving a MAS administration deadlines to when all the problems of the country should be solved. Thirty days, they say, or else measures of pressure will be implemented. I wonder if they voted for Felipe Quispe, who said during his close of campaign that if elected, all of the country's problems would be solved in 5 days max.
Anyone who has followed this blog knows how critical I have been of Morales in the past. I always have higher expectations for the left. However, my two weeks in rural Bolivia really changed the way I looked at my own opinions and I admit that I got too comfortable in giving my opinions without taking a look at what I am doing to affect change in Bolivia. If I wanted things to stay the same, make sure that I could find cheap labor, pay miniscule amounts for goods and maintain the social status that my family retains, then sure I would vote for the status quo, which means Tuto Quiroga. I truly believe that Morales holds genuine concern for those who are powerless and at the bottom of the socio-economic ladder. I believe that Quiroga holds genuine concern in maintaining the status quo for him and the rest of those who joined the coalition of convenience, PODEMOS.
Some like to paint him as part of this unholy alliance with Hugo Chavez and Fidel Castro, but as underreported, he has friendships and alliances with Lula de Silva, the Spanish government, and recently received an invitation from Nelson Mandela (who coincidentally received the same peace prize from Libyan leader Gaddahfi that Morales received).
Finally, the dirty propaganda war painted Morales as a narcotrafficker, but don't you think after these ten years that there would have been some proof? Ironically, it has been the traditional political parties that have been accused of having ties with drug dealers. Jaime Paz Zamora's (ex-MIR and part of every government until 2003) right hand man, Oscar Eid Franco, spent time in jail for his ties with drug barons. Zamora was supported by Tuto during his Prefectual run in Tarija. Many, many MIR transfugas made up part of PODEMOS. Yet, Morales is the one with drug ties, correct?
I would never deny the fact that I considered myself a leftist liberal and find nothing wrong with that label. In the end, I consider myself someone who does not live my life only for myself. I see hundreds of thousands who do not live like I do and that bothers me. Morales in office will not suddenly give college diplomas to cocaleros or improve living conditions of obreros. But it will help change the dynamics in the country so that the marginalized in this country will gain the confidence to feel equals with those like me who have ruled this country.
Sure, I know this sounds all sappy and nostalgic, but the plan for the country seems sound and I feel reassured that there are thousands of professionals, businessmen, intellectuals who are supporting MAS.
Every single candidate said that they were the candidate of change, which was a way to recognize that the system was corrupt. But in the end, MAS was the only alternative left to attempt to make those changes. There will certainly be bumps along the way, but the way that many are painting Morales in the media and in blogs has been very frustrating. It is far too easy to criticize from afar and do nothing about the current situation in Bolivia. People say that the country should now give MAS a chance to see what they can do, but I say, we are all in this together.
Posted by eduardo at 03:34 PM | Comments (1)
Perspective from a Bolivian Writer
Great article by Bolivian writer Edmundo Paz Soldán who was in Bolivia. He covered the elections for the Chilean newspaper La Tercera and appeared on television as an analyst on election night.
Posted by eduardo at 03:11 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 19, 2005
The Day After
I have a lot to say about yesterday's elections, but very little time to do so because today is my birthday.
Everyone says that they absolutely love the peace and quiet during election day (and pedestrian day), when cars and other modes of transportation are not allowed on the roads. I, however, find it disconcerting, as the silence almost means signs of trouble. Later this week, I will write about how I spent the rest of the evening, after my last post last night saying that MAS had almost reached the magical 50% mark.
Posted by eduardo at 06:04 PM | Comments (2)
Diciembre 18, 2005
Fifty Percent?
There is a chance that Evo Morales will reach the 50% of the vote, which was considered impossible. Eighty percent of the vote has been counted. Quiroga trails with 31%
Posted by eduardo at 06:59 PM | Comments (3)
Results, Results, Results
Every single channel has forecasts, voter intent polls (from yesterday), exit polls and now partial counts. Often confusion reigns as those gathered around a television outside the campaign headquarters take those numbers at face value. Right now there are about 150 supporters who have gathered to watch the results, although I am remaining cautious and waiting the final tally. Some results, so far, are going according to plan and others are surprising and disappointing to many.
Posted by eduardo at 06:53 PM | Comments (0)
Invalid Voters
Everyone was awaiting a straightforward vote today. However, today's Los Tiempos had a very interesting figure. Approximately 1 million voters were depurado (get to know that word), which means erased from the voter registry. If a voter for whatever reason did not vote in the last elections, which were the municipal elections of 2004, then that person needed to re-register for this December election. Too many people did not know that, but it should have also been the responsibility of the political parties to remind people.
However, today with the campaign, we found cases of voters who did vote in the municipal elections, but were still subsequently erased. As a result, a member of the OAS electoral observation team came out from the city of Cochabamba to dialogue with party officials and disappointed voters who had all of the documentation, including voter card which showed that they did in fact vote in 2004. A laptop computer from the Corte Nacional was brought out, but no resolution was reached. There may be some decision made. Some speculated that some voters may be allowed to vote later (those who should have been legally allowed to vote).
Yet, too many people legally were erased from the registry, but many are claiming that they still are allowed the right to vote.
Posted by eduardo at 04:42 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 17, 2005
The Future
I had thought about making an endorsement on this blog for Sunday’s elections, but decided against it. The past two weeks “embedded” with a campaign have been truly one of the most important and eye-opening experiences in my life. I cannot adequately express my gratitude to the dozens and dozens of individuals that accepted me into the process. Without any sense of suspicion or jealousy, all were very honest and open with me. All it took was for the candidate to vouch for me, and that was enough.
The experience has reaffirmed my desire to someday return to Bolivia to be a part of change for the better. It is one thing to be a “pundit” and critique things from afar in my comfortable apartment and it is another thing to attempt to get one’s hands dirty and be part of the solution. It is too easy to forget that nothing is perfect. Everyone makes mistakes.
I do know that the experience which culminates on election day is only the beginning. I have seen things up close and have seen the unfortunate side of politics, including mudslinging, questionable journalistic ethics, selfishness, desperation, and encountering individuals with ulterior motives. Yet, that exists in every corner of the world with every political party without fail.
However, I have also seen honesty, legitimate concern for less fortunate countrymen and women, selflessness, eyes staring back at me with genuine hope and countless volunteers willing to do anything for a cause they believe in. I also know that this exists everywhere, but sometimes people get too cynical about politics in Bolivia.
I have written how I have struggled with how much to share and reveal during this entire process. Frustration has been present from the beginning because I want to tell the world what I have witnessed and how much of my preconceived ideas have been modified. It makes me believe that change can happen in Bolivia, but perhaps I am still an idealist at heart.
As I stated, this experience may mark only be the beginning. Whether it continues soon after or down the road, but I am convinced that my future lies in Bolivia. I do not know what will happen in the next couple of weeks. I get a sense that this blog in this current state is nearing the end of its cycle and it has much to do with the events over the past two weeks.
Maybe someday I will be able to share fully what I have seen and breathed on the ground with ordinary and humble Bolivians. Article 35 of the Bolivian Constitution was tailor made for me. It allowed me to reclaim my Bolivian citizenship, without negating my American citizenship, which I am proud of equally. However, I know there is much left to do in Bolivia. Hopefully Sunday's results will be the beginning. Vague enough for you?
Peace for Bolivia.
Posted by eduardo at 09:47 PM | Comments (1)
Predictions
Without a second round of voting, no candidate will reach the desired 50% + 1 outcome. However, many seem to think that MAS will reach a record high for popular vote. Even though they have not come close to crossing into the 40s% in any of the polls, I will go out on a limb and say that MAS will cross that line on Sunday with a figure close to 41-42% The reason I think that this is entirely possible is due to the large numbers of poll responders who say that their choice is “secret”. In my estimation, a large number of these people will vote for MAS, but are afraid to reveal out of fear of what others might think. There is a strong perception that those supporting this party are only the working poor, taxi drivers, bus drivers, campesinos, with very few middle class supporters. God forbid if someone who lives in the Zona Norte of Cochabamba and attends one of the prized private schools would admit to supporting Morales. However, there are more than people will be lead to believe.
A second prediction, MAS will place 2nd in Santa Cruz.
Posted by eduardo at 08:15 PM | Comments (0)
The Final Hours
So what's been up this past several days? For starters, I have been sick in bed for a good part of the week.
Official campaigning came to a close at midnight on Thursday. The top four Presidential campaigns had their final events during the week. Samuel Doria Medina (UN) found a unique place to hold his event, at the foot of the Cristo de la Concordia statue which overlooks Cochabamba. The location made it difficult for any curious individual to stop by. Accessible at night by a long winding road up the mountain San Pedro. The group Octavia performed.
Jorge Quiroga's PODEMOS party put on the most public affair, right in the middle of the Plaza Colon. Of the four campaign closing festivities, it was the only one I personally attended, out of curiosity. It seems as if many had the same idea, as the flag bearers and those dressed in red were concentrated near the front. Many many attendees were teenagers who seemed to be out for the chequeo ( a term used here by teenagers who want to "check out" who else is around ).
MAS' closing festivities was held in the Stadium Felix Capriles. At the peak of attendance, there was approximately 50,000 from the entire Department. A heavy storm scattered many of the attendees before the keynote address. Argentine singer Piero, Bolivian group Tupay and football star Julio Cesar Baldivieso were some of the main attractions.
Finally, MNR held its close of campaign in a private ceremony in their party headquarters.
More later..
Posted by eduardo at 08:37 AM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 13, 2005
Inside Information?
Last Sunday, Samuel Doria Medina insinuated that new polls would come out this week, which conveniently would shake up the order of finish. Doria Medina said that he thinks that one of the television channels (he didn't name which one) will release a poll mid-week, which would show Quiroga in first place and that Doria Medina would drop to fourth, with the MNR candidate Michiaki Nagatani in third place. He indicated that in the past, polls have been maninpulated to acheive a desired result. We'll see...
Posted by eduardo at 12:38 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 12, 2005
Global Voices Conference
Via Ethan Zuckerman's blog, the Guardian Unlimited published an excellent article about the Global Voices Conference held in London last weekend.
This was no ordinary technology conference: it dispensed with the ego-boosting keynote speeches and elaborately choreographed question-and-answer sessions, relying instead on nothing more elaborate than a microphone shuttled from person to person as the debate flowed among the 80 or so bloggers and journalists present, as well as those joining in virtually via a webcast and a chatroom.
As a contributor to the Bolivian section of the wonderful project, I was honored to have been invited to attend as a representative from the Americas, but my trip to Bolivia did not allow for me to attend. Even with the five hour time difference, I managed to listen to the audio feed during the afternoon sessions and participated briefly on the IRC channel.
The entire day's events were blogged live at the Global Voices Blog

Posted by eduardo at 09:25 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 11, 2005
Symbolic External Vote
A new initiative called Vive Tu Voto will allow Bolivians living in the Washington DC area and in cyberspace to emit their symbolic, and non-binding vote for the December 18th elections. A couple of Bolivian restaurants will host these voting exercises. This has been an issue that strikes a chord with many Bolivian ex-patriates in the US, Europe, Argentina and Brazil.
From the website:Background info - More than 1 million Bolivians have left the country in search of better professional development opportunities, employment and an improvement of living conditions. As a result, they have left their families, their communities and their constitutional rights.
It is important that the rights of Bolivian citizens are respected inside or outside of the country as indicated by Article 145 of the Electoral Law, which was replaced by the Electoral Code, Law 1984 of June 25, 1999 whose Title III Electors, First Paragraph, Registry, Article 97, which says: "The Vote of Residents Abroad. Bolivian Citizens, residents abroad can vote to elect President and Vice President in the General Elections. This law expresses and regulates that right."
Even if half of the number of potential voters abroad exercised that right, they would undoubtedly affect the outcome of next weekend's vote. Residents in Argentina have also pushed for this right. For now, all they can do is go through the motions.
Posted by eduardo at 07:44 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 10, 2005
Participating vs. Observing
Having been in the country a little over a week, I have yet to make contact with many relatives and other friends. When I arrive home at night, it is way past the acceptable 10 pm call cut-off time. When I do manage to briefly speak with them, they ask me what I have been doing. My answer has been that I have been “ayudando” with a Congressional campaign of a family friend. I stress that I am involved to learn and that it has been an eye-opening experience.
However, it is difficult to see where the line is drawn between observing and actually participating. What constitutes participating? Do I have to be a registered member of the citizen’s group/political party? If I help hand out campaign posters/stickers/literature, does that mean that I am officially a member of the campaign? Does the fact that I am riding around a car adorned with the citizen’s group/party’s name and colors mean that I am *part* of the campaign?
Around the strategy table, which is all inclusive including some teenage volunteers and others who have little to do with strategy, I have been asked by the candidate to add my input on simple things such as the layout of a new brochure. However, last night after a television debate, a few of us were sitting around giving reaction and analysis of some of the tense moments during the event, I spoke up and added my two cents, which gained some nodding heads in agreement. Yet, I have been very careful to remain in my place during the past week.
Some of the most enlightening moments during the past week have been my conversations with the 10 or so people affiliated with the campaign. I have been telling my educational background, personal experiences and prove that I am somewhat knowledgeable about Bolivian current events. So far, I have been accepted into the group (at least I think), which has been working for nearly two months before I had arrived.
It has been something that I have been struggling against, to determine whether I have retained my early observation mode or whether it was just a matter of time that I would be participating more and more. I must admit that at times the adrenaline rush is overwhelming, such as the preparation for and during the televised debate (more on that later). Campaign strategy can also be exciting, when you pick up little things along the way, about the way many journalists work in Bolivia.
Where is the line between participating and observing? Any ideas? I think this is unchartered territory for someone. That is why it has also been a struggle to know how much to reveal, because there hasn’t been a precedent with an experience like this.
Posted by eduardo at 12:00 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 09, 2005
On the Clock
Following “Bolivian time” on the campaign trail would seem to be a trainwreck waiting to happen. However, somehow, everything turns out alright. Each day, on a rotating basis, one staff member is assigned to accompany the candidate and to be in charge of that day’s events. These responsbilities include knowing where the campaign event will be held, who is the contact person and to make sure that the group follows the schedule. In one day, there could be up to 10 events, which includes meetings with different organizations, walking the neighborhoods, radio and television interviews and staff meetings.
With so many places to visit with so little time, events are often bumped or cancelled altogether. On the weekly calendar on the wall, each event is assigned a specific time when the candidate needs to be at the location. I have been noticing that we have never arrived at the time indicated on the wall calendar. But there is almost a sixth sense to know when we must absolutely leave to arrive at an acceptable time.
There are staff members who are responsible for securing media interviews. The political advisors often recommend or decline some of the interview requests because of the common-knowledge that a particular journalist is biased or affiliated with another political party and is out for blood. Other staff members are also in charge of looking for endorsements from various organizations. As a result, they always lobby that their event is more important and many events get double-booked. In the end, the candidate has the final call as to which one gets bumped.
For example, today the candidate was invited as the guest of honor at a graduation in a urban neighborhood, which was scheduled months before the candidate even announced intention to run for office. At the event, it was not an explicit campaign stop, but there was time to pass out literature and the other staff members had the party logo and colors. The graduation was slated to start at 1 pm and we did not arrive until 3 pm. Immediately following that event, which ended at 5 pm, we rushed off to another graduation, which was supposed to start at 4 pm.
Fortunately television interviews are almost always taped in advanced and showed at a later airing. Arriving late to those appointments are not the end of the world.
Often the other car (we only have two different cars at our disposition) arrives ahead and assures the contact person that the candidate is on the way. The little white lie of “ya estamos llegando” (we are almost there) is used anywhere from the time that we are just leaving or to a time that we are on the road still a ways away. Cell phones are the lifeblood of a campaign. Communication between all the different staff members coordinating among themselves, with the candidate, with headquarters is easily facilitated by these commonly found gadgets. The only problem is when the cars travel to rural areas up the mountainside where cell phone signal is spotty at best. The night that I met the Presidential candidate, he was operating with two different cell phones, one in each pocket (both rang at the same time non-stop).
When the candidate finally arrives to a scheduled event, those waiting never seem to be disappointed for having had to wait. However, as a result, the candidate feels a bit guilty for not staying on schedule and is determined to give them their money’s worth (a figure of speech, there is no money exchanged). Then, the rest of the schedule is pushed back as a result.
In the end, getting in and out of cars, hearing more or less the same speech, not having time to stop for lunch and/or dinner, and all the travel in cramped vehicles leave me thoroughly exhausted at the end of the day.
Posted by eduardo at 09:58 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 08, 2005
Elections at Close Range
A funny thing happened along the road to the December 18 elections. On my part, there was a bit of excitement to be around the hoopla and intensity of one of the most historic elections in Bolivian history. Hearing the word on the street and just talking politics would have been satisfying enough. However, things took an unexpected turn earlier this week. A family friend decided to run for deputy (uninominal) in a zone on the outskirts of Cochabamba. He invited me to come along during the campaign trail.
Little did I know that I would have full access to the inner workings of a modest, yet intense campaign. For the past two days, I have accompanied the team during campaign stops in poor urbanizaciones and in rural villages high up in the mountains over the course of 12 hour days.
In between visits, we would return to campaign headquarters to discuss strategy and the latest news. I have been fortunate to have a seat at that table, but have yet to add my two cents. Television sets are set up in one of the rooms to document the number of times campaign ads run and any mention of the candidate on the news.
At times, the experiences seem so surreal. During two of the stops on Tuesday, entire speeches were given in quechua, as many of the voters in that area are rural farmers whose first tongue is the native language. The other day, we entered Cochabamba because the candidate still must campaign for the Prefect and Presidential candidate during his stops. I managed to meet the Presidential and Vice-Presidential candidates briefly as both were in town for campaign stops. We went to pick up the Presidential candidate in order to take him to a scheduled media interview that night.
I have been very careful to only support the congressional race, as I am still unsure of who I might support for President. I do not sport any colors of the political party and try to remain in the background as much as possible. However, I must admit that seeing campaigning at such a close range is an experience that few get to have.
Now the tricky part, I do not know how much I should reveal, since I value the confidence and access given to me. It would be foolish to run off to the computer and report on everything that I saw and heard. I must say that I am a little less cynical about politics after the two short days on the campaign. Perhaps after all of this done, I can write in fuller detail about my experiences and use more specifics. As soon as I am finished writing this post, I will take the trufi for the 15 km ride to the campaign headquarters.
Posted by eduardo at 10:13 AM | Comments (6)
Diciembre 06, 2005
Cross Voting
There is this funny little phenomenon taking place all across Bolivia. In 7 of the 9 Departments, the winner of the Presidential elections are all but decided. Either the PODEMOS or MAS candidate are considered favorites to wrap up the vote on a national level. However, Prefect elections, which are a first in the country, are not following this trend. Normally it might expected that a vote for a particular party would equal a similar vote for the Prefect of the same party.
Two particular cases jump out. In Cochabamba, Evo Morales is sure to win very handedly, but his Prefect candidate Jorge Alvarado (22%) trails AUN (ex-NFR and ex-Cochabamba mayor) Manfred Reyes Villa (53%). In La Paz, Morales also has gained the majority of votes according to the polls, but the PODEMOS candidate Jose Luis Paredes is leading with 53% the MAS Prefect candidate, Hugo Morales.
Other Prefect candidates that are running away with the race:
Pando - Leopoldo Fernández (PODEMOS) - 68%
Santa Cruz - Rubén Costas - Autonomía Por Bolivia (APB) - 50%
Tarija - Mario Cossío - Camino al Cambio (ERCC) - 53%
Cossío leads former Bolivian President Jaime Paz Zamora, in what might signal the end of a controversial political career.
Posted by eduardo at 08:29 PM | Comments (2)
Poll Results
Yesterday, fairly extensive poll results were released, which included levels of disfavorable ratings, 2nd choice candidates and breakdowns according to age, income levels and gender. Miguel Centellas has a great run-down on the results here.
Posted by eduardo at 08:20 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 04, 2005
Without Fail
Our apartment is located right smack-dab in the middle of Cochabamba. From my window, I have a fairly good view of the Cristo de la Concordia statue, which overlooks much of the city. Public transportation to every imaginable corner of the city passes right by the front door. In order to arrive to one of the main avenues of the city, it is just a short two block walk away. Many of the internet cafes are located at the intersection, due to its close proximity to the city’s public university, where the popularity of online gaming has increased, much to the dismay of the students’ parents. I figured that I must have made this short walk hundreds of time.
Everytime I return to the city after a year’s absence, I always take a look around. I marvel at the number of familiar and frequented businesses that have closed during this time, which have been replaced by new ones. However, all in all the city looks very much the same.
Along the walk that I just took 15 minutes ago, I spot a cholita (campesina woman) sitting next to her makeshift candy and snack stand. Her chin is buried in her chest as if she was engrossed in a deep sleep. However, I know full well that she would become alert if a potential customer would approach. Even though her face is partially hidden, I recognize her from the countless number of times that I have passed by from years past. For the past three years, six days a week, the same woman has occupied her familiar place hoping to gather profits from her meager stock of candy, peanuts and other snacks. Without fail, she would be there from the morning hours until at least 8 or 9 at night.
However, today she was there selling on a Sunday afternoon. Days like this have traditionally been a day of rest and relaxation for all Bolivians, including those that toil much harder than me. Domestic household servants look forward to Sundays to see their family and take a break from the week full of chores and other duties. Streets are barren and restaurants are packed with Bolivians from all walks of life.
The fact that this woman was working on Sunday must signify that economic opportunities have not improved. One must wonder when it is she gets to see her family. From the state of sleep that the woman was in, business must have been light today. She is just a reminder of who this election is for, those that live much differently than most who read this blog. Reducing poverty has barely been mentioned during the campaign, which should be the end result of the profits from any hydrocarbons sale or exportation. Instead we are caught in the middle of a he-said, she-said and catchy slogans, which without fail, seems to be the norm during all election cycles.
Posted by eduardo at 05:21 PM | Comments (1)
Diciembre 03, 2005
Election Everywhere
Take it all in. No, it is not the overpolluted air from the rusty old micros, but the smell of a fast-approaching election. Everywhere you go, anyone you talk to, all they want to talk about are the elections. During my stopover in Santa Cruz yesterday morning, the airport television sets ran non-stop election ads. I have not watched much television thus far, but I have seen Samuel Doria Medina's ad with the huge Bolivian flags waving in the background several times now. There is an identical one featuring one of the founders of the Nacion Camba, Carlos Dabdoub kissing the Bolivian flag running in Santa Cruz, but I have yet to see it in Cochabamba.
There are random cars driving around the city with flags waving. Window decals featuring Tuto Quiroga's PODEMOS can be seen on Volkswagon bugs around town. Mini-buses feature posters indicating their support for Evo Morales and MAS.
In various spots around the city, you can see teenagers wearing the colors of one of the parties handing out flyers. Not old enough to vote, one wonders what persuaded them to get involved with campaign. Could it be youthful idealism? Or maybe a couple of pesos in their pocket?
That brings me to the issue concerning why anyone gets involved with campaigning in the first place. PODEMOS is well-known for its embrace of transfugas, or individuals who were once part of the other traditional parties. However, it is becomding more clear that even MAS will operate as a traditional party. There are people getting involved with their campaign hoping to score a government job if MAS comes out victorious.
However, who can blame individuals seeing government jobs as their way out of such economic instability? The relatively small middle class in Bolivia was created by this dependency on a political system that encourages and manipulates through the patronage system. It seemingly seems worse off here than in times before, as there is an uncertainty of what might happen if either Tuto or Evo becomes President. Part of it may arise from scare tactics by pegging the other as the most radical of the right and left, respectively, than what is probably an a bit of an over-reaction.
Posted by eduardo at 02:36 PM | Comments (0)
Diciembre 01, 2005
Back to Bolivia
Seems like only yesterday when I wrote my last "Back to Bolivia" entry. However, it was nearly 14 months ago. I'll be around and about, mostly in Cochabamba, for the next four weeks. I've come along way since the first election I witnessed, back in 1997. Back then, I confused Evo Morales with Ivo Kuljis.
I've managed to swear off Bolivian food for the last six weeks, knowing full well that I would have the best food at even better prices for an entire month. Good things come to those who wait.
My only regret is that my football team, Jorge Wilstermann shamelessly did not qualify as one of the top 6 clubs in the country for the end of the year playoffs. That only means that I won't be able to participate in one my favorite pasttimes - spending Sunday afternoons in the Felix Capriles Stadium in Cochabamba watching our club disappoint us time and time again. So maybe that is fitting.
I'll be writing about the elections on my bolivia blog and on Global Voices.
Posted by eduardo at 03:29 PM | Comments (3)
Bolivia Roundup at Global Voices
Weekly roundup is up at Global Voices Online. It's hard to believe that this marks my eighth article for the project. I hope that people are finding them worthwhile.
Posted by eduardo at 03:33 AM | Comments (0)
Boot Him
Stupid. If Evo Morales wanted to prove that he wants to become President via democratic means, he needs to denounce the latest blunder by MAS senator Roman Loayza. Many have speculated that if Tuto Quiroga becomes President, that mobilizations will be out in full force. However, now someone from MAS has explicitly stated just that.
The senator from MAS said that Quiroga wouldn’t last six months in the Presidency and the Morales would become President win or lose the 05 elections. Loayza admitted that he has had conversations with members of the military and police who will support a possible coup d’etat.
One MAS deputy, Gustavo Torrico, has already said that Loayza does not represent the official MAS position. According to Terra, Morales regretted the comments and that they were “desubicadas”. However, Morales needs to take serious action against the clueless Loayza, such as disowning him. Comments like this could set MAS back and make some have a second thought about supporting someone who has radicals like this in his campaign.
As expected, Quiroga is having a field day with these comments.
Posted by eduardo at 03:30 AM | Comments (0)