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Extremism

October 28, 2004 on 2:21 pm | In national news | No Comments

Plans for a department-wide strike, threats of a refusal to pay taxes, and even whispers of an orchestrated golpe, sounds like the shenanigans of the COB (Central Obrero Boliviana), right? Guess again, but now the same tactics used by the far-extreme left are being used by the far-extreme right. The Comite Civico of Santa Cruz held one of their famed Assemblies of the Cruceñidad, where some of the richest men in Bolivia played a game of who can puff out their chests and come up with the best rhetoric.

These oligarchs are trying their damndest to play the same game that Roberto de la Cruz and Jaime Solares made famous. Distorting the words of the government and playing the populist in order to generate support for their interests. Right now, I imagine Zvonko Matkovic, a Yugoslavian immigrant hoping to divide Bolivia in the same manner of his former homeland, is wetting himself at the thought of an independent Santa Cruz, where he and his cronies create their own system of centralism.

Much of this sentiment has resurfaced after President Carlos Mesa appeared on the television interview program “El Hombre Visible”, where he was asked about the situation in Santa Cruz and Tarija, two areas dominated by these civic groups. Many, who didn´t even see the program acted on hearsay and speculations.

The government had to go the lenghts of placing an ad in the newspaper El Deber clarifying the exact quote:

Padre Pérez (interviewer): “Entiendo que tiene dos preocupaciones en este minuto: Santa Cruz y Tarija, parece que no los convence todavía, ¿qué pasa?”

Presidente: “Yo creo que la naturaleza del problema es distina entre Tarija y Santa Cruz, son dos departamentos con problemáticas diferentes. Para Santa Cruz el tema es una cuestión de esfera de poder. Santa Cruz es un departmento que tiene el liderazgo indiscutible del país. Y es un departamento que todavía no asume ese liderazgo nacional y sigue trabajando sobre la lógica de que hay reivindicaciones regionales que están por encima de su liderazgo nacional. Si Santa Cruz no resuelve ese problema no es una confrontación con el President sino es una definición sobre sí misma y sobre lo que Bolivia puede y debe esperar de Santa Cruz. Ahí creo que las elites cruceñas siguen entrampadas en una visión provinciana de las cosas, lo que no quiere decir que no entienda y admire profundamente el que Santa Cruz está donde esté porque no estaríamos hablando de Santa Cruz como lo estamos haciendo si ese departamento no hubiese generado en los últimos cuarenta años esta nueva dinámica creativa, positiva, constructiva…”

PP: Interrupts with other question

The day after the elite leaders and some random Cruceños interviewed on TV said that the President called the inhabitants of that department provincianos and that he doesn´t recognize that Santa Cruz is the most important economic region of Bolivia. Clearly from that quote, one can see that the President states and has stated in the past that Santa Cruz is very important to the country, and is supporting the country. In the same manner that La Paz and Potosi supported the rest of the country during various times in Bolivia´s history.

Just as the COB and COR, with their medidas de presion, dominate the headlines and seem to appear to speak for all of the Occident, these Civic Groups and elite business leaders also appear to speak for all of Santa Cruz. Unfortunately, the civic groups of Santa Cruz have mastered the art of propaganda, where many Cruceños have bought into the us vs. them mentality, when actuality the oligarchs really want their own centralist system where they are the sole benefactors. Pitting that region against the President, without placing any blame on the region´s Congressional representatives or prefects, works nicely within their plan of action.

These two extreme parts of the country are eerily similar in their rhetoric and their actions. Peharps Zvonko Matkovic and Jaime Solares should meet, they would make a good team.

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October 26, 2004 on 8:23 pm | In Uncategorized | 1 Comment

With only three days to go before I begrudgingly return to the United States, it would be better for me to save all the posts floating in my head till I return. I have had a lot of good experiences here and met some interesting people. I have uploaded a ton of pictures, but I would rather wait till I return to post them. I should aprovechar my time here, rather in front of the computer screen.

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October 25, 2004 on 7:11 pm | In Uncategorized | 3 Comments

I do not think they translated Farhenheit 9/11 into Spanish, even though in Latin America they use Celsius.

However, this movie opened in Cochabamba last Friday. It has been out on bootleg DVDs long before. A friend of mine saw the film on opening night and saw MAS senator Filemon Escobar among the moviegoers. My friend reported that someone (not necessarily Filemon) became quite agitated and blurted out in the middle of the showing “Que mueran los gringos!” (a.k.a. die, yankees, die).

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October 25, 2004 on 7:09 pm | In Uncategorized | No Comments

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October 25, 2004 on 6:38 pm | In Politics | No Comments

In Uyuni, Bolivia will be host to a giant hot air balloon festival. This will be an excellent launching point to focus Bolivia´s tourism to this unique salt plain. Even LAB airlines will begin service to Uyuni.

However, the hot air that I am most concerned about is coming from Santa Cruz, where the so-called elite leaders are whining just for the sake of whining. A recent headline in the Santa Cruz daily read “La ‘media luna’ declara guerra a Mesa y veta ley de hidrocarburos” (The word “war” was actually used by Zvonko Matkovic, head of CAINCO).

President Carlos Mesa and Congress are locked in a heated debate over the new Hydrocarbons Law. Congress, with the exception of some Tarijeño Congressmembers, voted overwhelmingly for the law recommended by the Comisión Mixta de Desarrollo Económico chaired by a MAS member from Potosi. The law created by the Executive Branch of the government has been called more conservative, but will not push foreign investment away.

This law is a major part of Mesa´s plan to reactivate the economy. There are dozens of projects waiting to invest in Bolivia and its huge natural gas reserves. However, without a law, no investment can be made.

One of the major criticism of these so-called leaders, has been Mesa´s inability to focus on the economy. Mesa-this, Mesa-that, it always is easy to criticize the Executive Branch of Congress. However, Mesa´s law conforms more closely with the desires of those Departments that hold the bulk of the gas reserves. Yet, leaders of the Comite Civicos (self-proclaimed businessmen from the upper-class) never mention or criticize the Congressional representatives from their own backyards, that voted for the Committee proposal, that would, as critics say, scare away investment and push Bolivia farther into economic difficulties.

Most of the gas is located in Tarija, and in the area called El Chaco. There is a movement that is calling for a 10th Department to be created. They argue, that Tarija and Santa Cruz are too centralized and a lot of the revenues from the gas reserves will never reach the rural countryside. These areas are behind economically and in development. The money always falls into the hands of the elite and powerful. Sound familiar? Would Santa Cruz and Tarija support this region in becoming autonomous and become a separate Department? Sounds like hypocrisy to me.

These “leaders” have autonomy as their rallying cry and have claimed this topic as their own. Mesa has repeatedly said that he supports local autonomies and it something that it would benefit all of Bolivia (which is something that these “leaders” never consider), and not just this fictional “media luna”, an invention of these individuals hoping to divide Bolivia. Autonomy works only when it does not just create smaller centralized powers that mirrors what happens in La Paz. Centralism is a bad thing, but centralism in Departments does not correct this mistake.

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October 24, 2004 on 10:57 pm | In photos | 1 Comment

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October 24, 2004 on 10:53 pm | In futbol | 1 Comment

My new adopted hometown team, DC United, finally won a game on the road. And when it counts the most: during the playoffs. The 2nd game of the home-and-home series will be the night I return back in the States on October 30th.

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October 22, 2004 on 6:33 pm | In national news | No Comments

In a rare interview granted to the Miami Herald, former President Gonzalo Sanchez de Lozada reiterated that he does not believe he can receive a fair trial in Bolivia. The former President stated that he would prefer being tried by an outside independent judge, and mentioned Spanish judge Baltazar Garzón as a possibility.

However, Bolivia and the United States have a treaty which requires the extradition of the accused. Yet, Goni has been looking for ways to remain in the U.S.

Sánchez de Lozada has retained Steel, Hector and Davis LLP, a Miami law firm, to study his options, which include the possibility of requesting asylum in the United States. He said he was living in the United States on a F2 visa, given to spouses and dependents of students. His wife is enrolled in an English language program at Georgetown University.

I do not know the legal requirements for granting asylum, but just as long as radical extremists continue to say that once Goni sets foot on Bolivian soil, then he will be lynched, then the asylum plea due to the threats on his life, would seem more plausible.

Latest Poll - Cochabamba Mayor Race

October 21, 2004 on 6:11 pm | In Politics | 3 Comments

Universidad Mayor de San Simón Political Science Institute:

Gonzalo Terceros (CU) - 22.7%
Gonzalo Lema (MAS) - 14.7%
None - 14.6%
Edwin Mallon (UCS) - 12%
Undecided - 11%
Jhonny Antezana (NFR) - 7%

Mallon is a well-known television personality, who hosts his own show called “Golpes de la Vida.” This show exploits (in my opinion) poor people who come on air, where they cry, plead and otherwise publicly beg for financial or other material assistance. Often these rural campesinos come to the studio speaking only quechua and all receive a bag of rice as a consolation “prize.” Some people call in offering to pay their medical bills or a charitable doctor offers free medical treatment, but on the whole, there ought to be a better way of doing things.

Watch Out!

October 21, 2004 on 1:33 pm | In photos | 2 Comments

This scary sign is located about 300 meters from my parents´ house in the countryside (although becoming more urban everyday). We do not know who placed the sign, but it serves as a warning for potential burglars. However, I am fascinated, yet bothered, by the depiction of the hanged man. Bolivia suffers from a phenomena of lynching as a real occurrence. That neighborhood is a mix of middle to upper class city dwellers and poor campesinos. It is a rather odd mix of neighbors who live in that area.

Added Translation: Attencion, this Neighborhood is Guarded and Armed. Suspicious Person, We Respond

Not Making This Up

October 20, 2004 on 9:04 pm | In national news | 1 Comment

Former President and all-around bad guy Slobodan Milosevic could be heading to Bolivia. The United Nations has formally requested that Milosevic be kept in a prison in Bolivia. The prision “El Abra” could be the site of Mr. Milosevic´s new home in exchange for the UN payment towards the prisoners´ meals.

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October 20, 2004 on 6:24 pm | In quotes | No Comments

Hope has two beautiful daughters. Their names are anger and courage. Anger at the way things are and courage to see that they do not remain as they are.”

— St. Augustine

Construction Time

October 20, 2004 on 6:05 pm | In Uncategorized | 3 Comments

Making my way around Cochabamba on foot, I try to pass through areas that I have not seen in the time that I have been back. Something that grabs my attention is the sheer volume of new construction projects. A spectacular new overpass will be completed soon in the Muyurina neighborhood. There is a brand new bridge near la Recoleta. Plazas are being re-tiled with brand new gardens. Even in the Zona Sud (the poorer part of town), la Avenida Suecia has gone through a remarkable transformation including a new children´s park.

You know what all this construction means?

It is election time!

Something tangible that the ruling party, Nueva Fuerza Republicana (NFR) can leave behind are these examples of concrete and steel. They are looking to extend their stronghold on power another five years.

However, I have adopted the mantra, QSMN. (Quien sea menos NFR) a´la the ABB sentiment present in the U.S. You see, when a ruling party received over 50% of the vote in 1999, it translates to zero opposition in the council.

Many stories run wild concering the NFR´s disregard for ethics. For example, in Cochabamba there is a limit on the height of new buildings that are built. No new building can exceed seven stories. But take a look around, there are obviously new construction projects that are higher than the seven allowed. The NFR-dominated council passed a law that allows buildings to exceed 7 stories, the constructor received the proper permits for the taller buildings, and promptly the council repealed the law. So in essence, a law was bent for the benefit of a select few.

Now, I have no way of proving that and it may be an urban legend, but upon closer glance you can see new projects higher than 7 stories in the process of being built.

If there is one political character that I cannot stand, it is NFR chief Manfred Reyes Villa. A former Army colonel and ex-mayor of Cochabamba, he holds exhoribant wealth. I doubt that the salary of an army official would allow for such extravagance. An electrician who worked for our family, also did some odd jobs in one of Manfred´s houses. The luxury that that man lives in is unique. This was a hotly contested issue in the 2002 Presidential election: Where did Manfred´s money come from?

Finally, as the urban sprawl continues around Cochabamba, more of the countryside, in particular around Sipe Sipe and Vinto continues to receive increased development. Coincidentally, Manfred owns huge properties in these areas. When his fellow party member was the prefect of Cochabamba, all these areas received electric hookups and new roads. Of course, this helped the campesinos in the area, but also increased the value of these properties owned by Manfred. And now, these areas are one of the star lots in the entire department.

Trancapechos

October 20, 2004 on 3:03 pm | In food | 2 Comments

Silpancho has been one of the most recognized Bolivian dish and the easiest to make. My mother served us silpancho (we used to snicker at its funny name) in the middle of Western Kansas. If you can serve it there, you can serve it anywhere.

My favorite part wasn´t the breaded meat, rather the jumbled mix of rice, potatoes, tomate and runny egg that, with the right amount of salt, would be very filling.

Humans always try to improve on something, and that is where the “trancapecho” was born. Literally translated to “stuck in the chest” or “lodged in the chest”, those words make it sound like the meal would be painful to swallow. But, essentially, it is silpancho served in a piece of bread, sandwich-style.

The full meal that fits nicely inside a sliced piece of bread is all the rage after 9 p.m. on street corners and in little kiosks along the Rio Rocha.

I invited five of my friends to a round of trancapechos last night after basketball practice. The bill came to 30 Bs. (or around $3.50), not bad for a full meal for six.

The kiosks located near the bridge leading to Quillacollo is a famous gathering place for these sandwiches. Yet, it is not exactly the cleanest of places to eat. But, you try not to think about how many times the oil used to fry the potatoes and meat have been used over and over again. This last visit showed a little improvement in cleanliness.

Salt is pretty important in eating silpancho, and is also with consuming a trancapecho. In the past, the caseras would lay out a flat plate with a pile of salt, and her patrons would grab a finger-full and sprinkle it on their sandwich. Obviously multiply the number of customers by the cleanliness of their hands, would make you lose your lunch. I would always try to move the pile of salt and try to scrap the bottom, but I am glad now they have evolved to using salt-shakers.

Obviously there are better places to eat, but this ritual is more about the fact that I can invite my friends without seeming too fancy. Soon it was 11:30 p.m. and it started to rain. On the way home, I was hoping that the hygiene gods would be merciful on me.

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October 19, 2004 on 6:13 pm | In futbol | No Comments

Okay, so maybe Bolivian fútbol is not the most graceful or the most popular in the world, but it is mine dammit! There was once a website created by a Bolivian living in Europe that was a high priority bookmark. The way he scoured the newspapers and other sources for up to the minute news about the National Team and the Bolivian League bummed me out when he stopped updating. After a long hiatus, he is back with a newly designed website, which looks great.

He also added a forum, where hopefully there will be some intelligent and constructive interaction about our beloved teams. I say this because one webboard devoted to Wilstermann is chock full of idiots who only now how to insult other teams using racist and homophobic language. In other words, anonymous machismo, and things get out of hand.

I believe he is in the process of getting a domain name, but you can see the unfinished product using the links above.

Inspiration for the Website Name

October 18, 2004 on 10:31 pm | In photos | 2 Comments

Hard Habit to Break

October 18, 2004 on 10:22 pm | In Uncategorized | 1 Comment

Here in Bolivia (in Cochabamba at least), everyone adds the diminutive -ito or -ita to nearly every word. I do not know why that is, but perhaps it is to make things a little more endearing or informal. I have picked up on the habit and find myself using it in instances even when it does not warrant it.

For example: una (one) becomes unita.

Cuantos quieres?” Unita no mas

aqui becomes aquisito.

“Donde quieres que la pongo?” “Aquisito

Those are only two examples.

Must….break….annoying….habit (apologies to Homero Simpson)

The Need for the Sea

October 17, 2004 on 11:06 pm | In photos | 1 Comment

These are paintings located on the plaza principal in Tiquina on the shores of Lake Titicaca. They portray Bolivia´s longstanding feud with Chile over the loss of the sea. The statue on top of the monument is none other than Eduardo Avaroa, who is national hero for withstanding till the end.

No fue una guerra librada por Bolivia la causa de la pérdida de estos territorios, más bien una usurpación fruto de una invación cruel y sangrienta, Bolivia país pacífico por excelencia no poseia un ejército en esa zona, los ciudadanos (civiles) fueron los que enfrentaron una invación premeditada abusiva y cruel, no poseian armas y el mayor punto de oposición a la invación chilena, fue la defenza del “Puente del Topater” un 23 de marzo 1879, donde murio acribillado Don. Eduardo Avaroa, quien, cuando le pidieron su rendición expresó valientemente un gríto recordado por todos los bolivianos en homenajes a su valentía “Rendirme yó !!,… que se rinda su abuela carajo…!”.

From: Source

Goni´s Trial

October 17, 2004 on 10:59 pm | In Uncategorized | No Comments

No one seems to know exactly what is going on with the process for former President Gonzalo Sanchez de Lozada´s trial of responsibilities. Some want to pronounce him guilty before any sort of investigation takes place, and some are threatening to mobilize in Sucre, the site of the trial, if the trial does not take place soon. They argue that it has been a year since the events last October took place and only now this trial has been approved.

Those already finding him guilty claim that since he is the commander-in-chief of the Armed Forces, then he is responsible for their actions and must have gave orders to kill relatively innocent people. (I use the word relatively, because I do not know with authority whether the protesters were armed, even though there were calls by some campesino leaders that El Alto would rise up in an armed insurrection). Yet, if this argument would be binding, shouldn`t George W. Bush be responsible for the abuses at Abu Gharib?

Another argument used by those already pre-judging Goni cites a decree passed on October 11, 2003 authorizing the indemnization of any deaths that might occur.

I am all for a trial for Goni, Carlos Sanchez Berzain and anyone else who may have been involved. Although I am skeptical a fair and impartial trial could ever take place inside the tense political environment of Bolivia. Some radical leaders have vowed to lynch Goni, when he arrives in the country, citing “communal justice”. With words like that, how can we expect for justice to run its course?

Towards the Constituent Assembly

October 17, 2004 on 10:39 pm | In Uncategorized | No Comments

Momentum has been gaining towards the future Constituent Assembly that will change the country´s Constitution. A website has been formed to try to explain the process. President Carlos Mesa reiterated his absolute support for this process in his address to the nation Sunday night.

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