My earliest memories of La Paz as a kid were falling victim to bloody noses due to the high altitude. Trying to cross the multi-lane avenue of "El Prado" amidst the whizzing traffice reminded me much too much of the Frogger video game, except that I only had one life to spare. Needless to say, I never cared much for Bolivia’s capital city.
Fast forward to the year 2000, where my appreciation for all of Bolivia grew, and I soon began looking forward to taking the overnight bus-cama Bolivar bus from Cochabamba to La Paz (ticket 3 US dollars). Whether it was to visit my aging grandfather, catch a connecting bus towards Cuzco, go bookshopping, or watch Bolivia thrash Colombia in a World Cup qualifier, better memories replaced those of traffic paranoia and having to tilt my head back.
I’ve always equated La Paz with a bustling metropolis, where there are far too many buses, taxis and trufis that I have to hope that it will take me to my wanted destination. The steep winding roads augmented by shortness of breath and often slippery slidewalks makes getting around rather burdensome.
However, I knew it was not always like how it is now. A promotional film called ‘"Tour of Old and New in Bolivian Capital" was produced by the U.S. Office of Inter-American Affairs showing what this unique city was like nearly sixty years ago.
Those familar with the various landmarks and distinct buildings along El Prado will find this film interesting as one can see how things have changed over the course of six decades. For example, the stadium that is now Hernando Siles Stadium in the Miraflores neighborhood is shown during a league futbol match. However, back then, the stadium only had one level, where today the largest stadium in the country now has a second deck.
In the 1940s, La Paz was generally free of noisy automobiles, which generate unnecessary pollutants, most of the street traffic were well-dressed men and women and colorfully dressed indigenous women taking their wares to the marketplace. Nowadays, as more rural citizens make their ways to the urban centers to try and set up in the informal economy, the space on sidewalks becomes prime real estate.
La Paz is getting more and more crowded, evidenced by the rapid construction that climbed the mountainsides. This film, for those with broadband access and familar with La Paz, is worth a look to get a good feel of the before and after look at this very unique city.